Aug 14, 2018

June 2018: Interrail Trip II – Vienna, Graz, Ljubljana & Lake Bled


Hello again!



Before we dive into the next few stops on our interrail trip, here are a few tips for anybody planning on travelling around (in general).
·         If you are going to be dealing with different currencies, get an app like xCurrency which allows you to see conversion rates and amounts without internet. It saved our lives while on interrail since we ended up dealing with 5 different currencies and, let me tell you, Hungarian forints are a shock!
·         If you are a student, bring your card along at all times! You’d be surprised by the amount of discounts that you can get…
·         Make sure you have a copy of your passport packed separate from your actual passport. Alternatively, what we did was snap a photo of our passports and send them off to each other. That way if your bag gets stolen *hopefully not*, and you lose your passport and phone, at least your travel buddy will have a copy!
·         Download podcasts to keep you entertained during long trips! I got hooked (and converted Megan) on The Guilty Feminist on Spotify!
·         Packing essentials? Things that people might not think of (but came in super handy) were good walking shoes (literally, make sure they are worn in or you’ll get blisters), flip-flops (for those hostel showers), a microfiber towel (will save you the dollar avoiding towel rental), a padlock and, finally, an emergency poncho! That was 1 pound well invested when the downpour in Graz hit…
Now let’s get down to business.


VIENNA, AUSTRIA
Dates: 18th to 20th June
Accommodation:
·         Wombat Naschmarkt Hostel. 6-bed female dorm. The breakfast was incredible (paid extra) and the room was super spacious and the building well located by the market. However, we had a lot of trouble connecting to the Wi-Fi which was not ideal…
Food:
·         Spar Gourmet. Oh my days, Spar saved us during interrail. My go-to lunch would be cherry tomatos, babybel and some bread and a piece of fruit. They had Carrefour in Poland and Spar in the rest of the countries we visited, but I must say the Gourmet Spar in Austria won them all! So much good food! *cheapfreak*
·         Amerlinghaus. This is a local restaurant with an inside patio. Such a cool location and it was absolutely buzzing when we went there. The menu is varied but not extensive and the food was amazing! Definitely go there!
·         You have to try the Sacher Torte when you are in Vienna. We went to Demel but I wouldn’t recommend it as the staff was quite rude. They sell them everywhere so just pop into a bakery for the chocolaty goodness!

·         Pizza Mari. If you want Neapolitan pizza, this is the place for you. They were super tasty and affordable. Make sure you either book or go early because the place was buzzing!
Sightseeing:
·         We did most of the central monuments on foot: Naschmarkt, Karlsplatz and the church, Belvedere Palace (so beautiful!), St Stephen Cathedral, the Spanish Riding School, the National Library, the Opera, Rathaus, the Parliament… Most of the places are quite clustered together and although Vienna is known for its avenues and wide streets, simply walking around is worth it for the architecture!
·         It is worth getting a 24hr transport pass. You can use it for tram, metro, U-bahn and S-bahn and I think also buses (but we didn’t take any). It was so, so worth it as we used it to visit Schloss Schönbrunn and the gardens (it is amazing and beautiful so definitely stroll the gardens and look at the different fountains, it was like Versailles), Stadpark, the Vienna Cemetery where famous composers such as Mahler, Beethoven or Schubert are buried, Hundertwasserhaus & Kunsthaus… It saved us so much time!
·         Danau Kanal in the evening to watch the sun setting over the river was amazing! There are loads of bars along the riverside so make your way over for those long summer nights to enjoy a beer by the water!

Bonus info:
·         We spent the train trip to Vienna chatting to a family who was sitting near us. A British couple with two super chatty and young children who had travelled all around the globe and were so, so clever. Family goals.
·         Unfortunately we did not have enough time to visit any Klimt exhibitions because the museums were either closed or the entry ticket was incredibly expensive (even with student discount), so I’ll have to go back for that!
Overall opinion: I wasn’t blown away by Vienna but it is a beautiful city, very grandiose. It reminded me a lot of Paris but the Austrian version of course! This was definitely the most expensive stop of our trip, but as long as you pick your activities and meals carefully, it is doable! I have to go back for those Klimt galleries…


GRAZ, AUSTRIA
Dates: 20th to 22nd June
Accommodation: This time round we stayed at an Airbnb. Initially we were going to stay at Antonia’s place, a friend from Erasmus in Siena, but unfortunately she was quite busy with exams so we rented an Airbnb and instead met her during the day. Our Airbnb was perfectly located, halfway between the station and the centre of town!

Food:
·         Here’s a rogue one but there is a mall called K&O near the square. Head up to the rooftop café on the top floor for amazing views of the rooftops, the schloss and the clock tower. Bonus points if it’s as the sun comes down!
Sightseeing:
·         Graz is a quaint student town in Austria. You wouldn’t necessarily fit it in your route but we were visiting our friend. She showed us around and you can walk the whole thing in a few hours: the Rathaus, the main square, the Opera, the theatre, the Stadpark, Murinseln, the Kunsthaus… As it was exam season, most students were away studying but it does feel like a young city with a lot of cultural events on!
·         Schlossberg and the clock on the top of the hill are a must. Unfortunately for us, we had to make do with seeing them from the bottom as a storm the week before had left the paths closed for safety reasons. You can either walk up or take the funicular!
·         Now for the hidden gems. Head to the glockenspiel 11am, 3pm or 6pm to see the figures dancing to the music. And head to the town hall for the Doppelwendeltreppe – a double winding stone staircase! It is free to enter!
·         If you fancy an adventure you can take the tram to Eggenbergschloss. The palace grounds are beautiful, with peacocks roaming around. Such a lovely spot for a picnic, a book or simply some sunbathing!

Bonus info:
·         I absolutely loved the train trip between Vienna and Graz, full of winding tracks in and out mountains between picturesque villages, steep rocky faces and snaking rivers. We were quite lucky because – except for the overnight trips – none of our train journeys were over 2 or 3 hours, so totally doable in daytime. Watching the different landscapes out of the train window is one of my favourite pastimes!
·         As I mentioned at the start of the post, a thunderstorm hit right as we were about to have dinner on one of the days. We had no umbrellas and it did not look like it was stopping any time soon. And it was raining cats and dogs. As in, we wouldn’t have reached the other side of the road without getting soaked. Fortunately, I’d randomly thrown my 1 quid emergency poncho inside my bag and it spared us from reaching the Airbnb (too) soaked!
Overall opinion: I thought Graz was picturesque and pretty. It felt a bit like The Sound of Music, ngl. And although it was lovely to see Antonia, unless it happens to be on your route, I wouldn’t go to great lengths for it.


LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA
Dates: 22nd to 25th June
Accommodation: Kva Hostel. 4-bed mixed-dorm. The rooms were spacious and clean, the hostel was really central and there was breakfast included. I quite liked the place. Only downside? Reception was not 24 hours which sounds like a small detail until you realize you actually need it… But more on that later.
Food:
·         Bop Burger. By the river, they do super tasty burgers for quite a decent price! I don’t eat meat and the bean burger was super good, as well as the fries!
·         Druga Violina. This one was recommended to us by Mariana, the free tour guide, and it was a great place. We went twice, that’s how good it was! It had a bunch of local dishes with a mix of more mainstream ones and all pretty cheap. Staff were super nice too! Definitely recommend.
·         Skuhna. This was probably one of the most alternative places we visited while travelling. Essentially, while roaming around we stumbled across this road (parallel to the river, just off Dragon Bridge towards the train station and away from the centre) with loads of different student-friendly restaurants. Skuhna was an African and Asian cuisine restaurant which on the Friday was serving a menu deal with live music! The place, which began as a start-up to improve career prospects for refugees, is really small but feels super cosy, the food was amazing and the staff suddenly started singing Aprican songs acapella as entertainment! And the best thing was they made us sing along! Such a fun night!
·         Vino & Fish. Sort of a fish and chips shop but with wine and really good produce. You pay by weight and the fish was super fresh so it was totally worth it!
·         Main Market. I cannot remember the name of the place, but along the shops in the market building along the river is a pastry shop that only sells struklji, a local pastry that reminded me of a super thin crêpe rolled up with different fillings. Megan had the buckwheat and walnut one and I went all out with the dark chocolate and raspberry flavoured one. The decadence was worth the calories!

Sightseeing:
·         The centre of Ljubljana is completely walkable. On our first day we just roamed around without looking at a map and pretty much visited the main sights: Preseren Square, the Cathedral, Dragon Bridge, the Three Bridges… On the second day we took an actual tour which was free (there’s loads of ads for those in the hostels and hotels) which was really good because we learnt so much about the history of the city and the country! Slovenia was completely unknown to us and it turned out to be one of our favourite places!
·         Despite its small size, the Cathedral is definitely worth a closer look. On the outside the intricate metal gates tell the story of Slovenia while the inside is magnificently decorated with gold leaf and mosaics. So pretty.
·         You can easily (but quite steeply) walk up to the Castle (or you can take the cable car from the market square). However, you have to pay to get in, and cheap as we were we passed on that. It is still worth the climb as the views from outside the castle walls are amazing!
·         The market is also a must. They have loads of fresh (and also organic) produce and free tasters – recommend trying the truffle and pumpkin oils. They also sell clothes as in any other European outdoor market but have artisan stands too. I bought a beautiful handmade necklace off one of them, so it is definitely worth a browse and maybe picking up lunch on the way!
·         Metelkova Mesto. This place was crazy. Slightly far off the centre, near the train station, is a mismatch of street art, trash sculptures, graffitis, bars and hippy communes. Such a cool place! Plus, it happened to be Pride when we went there and the parade was starting from Metelkova so we ended up in the middle of the party and did the whole tour around the city celebrating sexual and gender freedom! Pretty cool day.

Bonus info:
·         I think this was the hostel we had the most interaction with our roommates… Timo was a French guy who stayed the whole three nights we were there and then the fourth person changed around. On the whole it was pretty cool, until we had a nightmare with a drunk Brit throwing up from the top bunk down onto Timo at silly-o’clock in the morning. Reception and the kitchen were closed and there was no way of contacting the staff, so we were lucky we managed to find some clean bedding to at least change Timo’s sheets so he could sleep on the floor… Such a frustrating night. On our last day however we hung out with May, a Japanese girl who had stayed in our room, and Ivana, a Macedonian girl we started chatting to during breakfast. It was great to hear everybody’s travel stories and crazy differences between our countries!
Overall opinion: I really liked Ljubljana. It’s not a massive city and perhaps not an obvious stop but the locals are incredibly kind and helpful, the place is beautiful and clean and despite the size it did feel quite cool, maybe due to the student population. I’d definitely go back! And I now want to visit other parts of Slovenia too.


LAKE BLED, SLOVENIA
Dates: 24th June
Accommodation: N/A
Food: We just brought some packed lunch with us. It saved us from extortionate prices and having to depend on restaurants (ie. being in the main town) for lunch so instead we were able to walk around and eat whenever we got hungry!

Sightseeing:
·         Lake Bled is a summer holiday destination for people who enjoy water sports. You can rent boats and paddle boards and you can walk around the lake. It is only a few kilometres long and you pass various swimming spots so bring your swimming trunks if you head over there in the summer!
·         When the sun is out, the place looks beautiful! Make sure to snap loads of photos to admire when you go back home.
·         Don’t forget to climb up to the castle and pay to get in – use the student discount if you have one! The best photo spot is up there! You also get access to the toilet (free) and a little museum on the history of the place which I found particularly interesting.
Bonus info:
·         Lake Bled is a very popular destination. You can get there by coach which is easy and cheap (around 1 hour from Ljubljana). However, because of its popularity, I would advise to either buy the tickets in advance (we bought them the day before, the bus station is right by the train station) or head there very early to avoid disappointment!
Overall opinion: I absolutely LOVED Lake Bled. It was my favourite stop that we did on our trip. The water is crystal clear (you can see the fish swimming around and the pebbly bottom by the shore), it is very well kept and clean, and it is a very peaceful place. I wish we’d had more time there so we would’ve been able to swim or paddle board... Walking around the lake was great though! I would 100% go back!

That’s me done for the second post (and second week) of my interrail adventures with Megan. The next and last post will be about the week we spent in Croatia so look out for that!
Zoe x
Snapchat: zoeamma



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