Apr 18, 2017

YA-16: Easter weekend in Bologna and Parma!

As a lot of you may know, I went to Bologna last weekend with Megan, to make the most of the Easter holidays. Vero was going to join us but she was sick so sadly she decided to stay in Siena to recover rather than go on the trip, fortunately she’s now feeling better. Here’s what we got up to…
On Friday morning I got up earlier than I actually needed to before the bus, and ended up nearly finishing 13 Reasons Why (last entry evidenced my addiction problem). However, Megan arrived to put her things in the suitcase and leave just as I was 30 minutes short of finishing the season. Worst timing ever, but my bad to decide to try and fit in 2 hours I didn’t actually have… We made our way to the station and, to our surprise, the bus was on time. Quite busy, but on time. And, behold, the wi-fi worked this time and I managed to finish the season while on the bus! Hurray for FlixBus working wi-fi! The trip was fine – it takes 2 hours to get to Bologna and I spent most of them sleeping or watching 13RW. Once we got to Bologna it was really hot in comparison to Siena, which was great! We didn’t have any problems getting the bus to the Airbnb and reaching the apartment itself: a bohemian student flat near Giardini Margherita and 15’ walk off the city centre. The flat was amazing and our hosts, Federica and Jacopo, were very nice. Our room was massive and so was the apartment and I absolutely fell in love with the decoration: full of posters, artsy prints, sketches on the walls, a tonne of books and music on vinyl playing in the background. Honestly, I wish I actually lived there! If you’re looking for a place to stay in Bologna give me a shout and I’ll give you the details of the place!
Once settled Megan and I had something to eat and then headed out to explore. It was lovely and sunny and we didn’t really have an itinerary so we just went out to have a wander around the city. We ended up visiting most of the main sights: we stumbled by chance onto Basilica di Santo Stefano which is known as the sette chiese because when you walk in you realize it is actually a cluster of different churches. It was amazing and I’m glad we actually walked in! We then kept on walking and went past leaning Torre Garisenda and Torre Asinelli with its everlasting queue and then turned onto the Old Jewish Quarter. As is to be expected, the cool cafés and restaurants were mostly in this part of the town and, although it was pretty quiet, I quite liked it. Then we went to a couple shops as Via dell’Indipendenza is flanked by a wide assortment of clothe shops unlike Siena (travelling is an excuse to go shopping!) and towards Piazza Maggiore which was full of people and we stopped to see a hip-hop group of dancers performing. The sun was setting and the buildings looked even more orange than usual which made them look so pretty! We kept wandering and went past a couple more interesting places like the Chiesa dei Celestini which is worth walking into if it’s open – the frescoes and decorations were breathtaking! -, the Archiginnasio which was closed by the time we walked past, and the Quadrilatero market – plagued with people and amazing food! 
We were quite hungry after so much walking so decided to go to Osteria dell’Orsa and see if we could get a table to try the famous tagliatelle al ragù. The restaurant, which has been recommended to us by a few people, was quite busy but we managed to get a table and order some wine, ragù and tiramisu. It was all fairly good but not the best place I’ve been to if I’m honest. If you’re looking for a cheap place that has the local specialties, definitely give it a try but don’t expect a culinary heaven experience!
After dinner we decided to go back to the Airbnb and get changed before heading back to the centre and meeting Dennis, a friend of Megan who was passing by Bologna at the same time. We weren’t really sure where the party was at but we were suggested Via Belvedere so there we went. By Mercato delle Erbe we managed to get a table and enjoy a couple of aperospritz while chatting. Apparently, Bologna is a great place for partying but we just happened to choose the worst time to go – Easter weekend when all the students have gone back home! It was fine though, after a couple of drinks we decided to change and go to Via Zamboni to search for a bar with music since Megan wanted to dance. Via Zamboni had a more student feel to it, but no places to dance. We ended up in an English pub that was playing some Spanish music but Megan was the only one dancing so we ended up leaving quite soon. At around 2 we were on our way back home – a different evening in a different city.
On Saturday we woke up early since we were going to catch a train to Parma to meet with Sara, my Skype tandem partner from last year. We had some trouble with the hob: apparently you had to use a normal lighter to light the flame as the spark did not work, however to do this you had to put your hand incredibly close to the flame so we developed a different technique requiring the two of us – lighting up a napkin while the other one started the gas and quickly putting the paper out after lighting the hob ring. Not the best technique but a little safer? Due to this mishap we missed the first bus to the station but made it in time to catch the train we wanted to get despite the station being super busy. The trip to Parma is about an hour long and went just fine – Sara was waiting for us at the platform which was great! It was fantastic to finally get to meet her, she’s so nice! She put the time aside to show us around Parma even though she was back home for the holidays – grazie mille! The day started quite chilly and overcast but eventually the sun came out. Sara showed us around the main locations in Parma: we walked along the Torrente up until the Palazzo della Pilotta (an evolution of the Spanish word ‘pelota’ in reference to Spanish soldiers playing there), the Duomo with it’s amazing frescoes inside, the Battisterio, the University, Via Cavour and Piazza Garibaldi with all their shops… We stopped for an early lunch at a café called Malva and I had to order some prosciutto crudo of course! I went for a smoothie and a cheese and crudo focaccia, it was so yummy! We then did some shopping and Sara had to leave us around 1 because she had to get back home to meet her family. It was so lovely seeing her, thanks again! Megan and I roamed the shops for a bit more and bought a couple of pieces before getting some dolci: the typical Italian colomba and another shortbread pastry filled with what tasted like mince pie. They were both super yummy. Parma is a more industrial-looking city; it has a lot of shops unlike Siena, but I’m happy with my Erasmus choice because Siena looks a lot more like my idea of an Italian city. It was great to discover Parma nonetheless – wish I had a bike too, because it’s so flat you can cycle everywhere! Then we made our way towards the station to get back to Bologna.
Once back in Bologna we were knackered after a late night and early rise so I took a nap and shower before going back out in search of dinner. We decided we wanted to get some Indian food and good old Google suggested a place near Via Belvedere called Ristorante India. The place was massive and the food was great. Megan went for dhal, some basmati rice and melanzane  while I opted for the chicken biryani with some mango lassu. I’m proud to say I made it through – I’m not one for spices as Vidushi can tell, but I ate the whole thing and survived! It was really good even though my mouth was on fire afterwards. I then decided to treat myself to a McFlurry on our way home (I’m so mainstream), but they had a baci fondente one which has probably now become my favourite flavour – it was so rich!
On Easter Sunday Megan was so nice surprising me with some Easter eggs! We don’t really do eggs in Spain so I always forget they are a thing in England – thanks Megs xx We woke up fairly late and eventually gave up on our initial plan of hiking to San Luca because it was too far away and we had to take a couple of different buses just to get close to it. Instead, we decided to do the sette segreti di Bologna that Giacomo had told us about on Thursday night. We were on our way into town when, surprise-surprise, we bumped into Sebastian! The German Erasmus student who showed us around Pisa! I swear I don’t know how we do it, but we always end up randomly bumping into people we know when we are away… Italy can’t be that small, right? He was on a trip with some friends – such a coincidence that we happened to walk through the same street at the same time! The seven secrets didn’t take too long because we had already done a couple of them. The list varies from page to page, but here’s a list:
·         Laughing satire head in Piazza di Santo Stefano
·         Sette Chiese (Basilica di Santo Stefano)
·         Statua di Nettuno’s erection (unfortunately for us, it was under restoration)
·         Glass on top of Torre Asinelli (we didn’t go up, but apparently the broken glass is not there anymore…)
·         ‘Canabis Protectio’ sign on the ceiling of the archway between Via dell’Indipendenza and Via Rizzoli
·         Voltone del Podestà’s “wireless telephone”
·         La freccia (arrow) on the ceiling of Corte Isolani
·         The finestrella in Via Piella 16, which looks like little Venice
If you want to learn why these places are quirky, make sure to look them up on Google. It takes about half an hour to visit them all as they are pretty close to each other and we actually had gone past them before – just didn’t know what we had to pay attention to! My favourites are the finestrella and the seven churches.
We then did some more shopping and had lunch at Regina Margherita, a Neapolitan pizza place. Mine had mozzarella, basilica, pomodoro and DOP olive oil and it was amazing! Definitely a place to recommend if you’re looking for a place to eat in Bologna. It’s a bit off the beaten path which means more local ;)
After a filling lunch, we went past the airbnb to drop the cameras and get some water before hitting Giardini Margherita because the weather was so lovely it was calling for an afternoon in the park. We spent a good three hours sunbathing, reading and napping. It was great! The park was also really busy with a lot of families out on a walk after Easter lunch.
After having a shower we decided to go out for dinner to a tortellini place we’d seen in Via Marsala to try out the tortellini in brodo. It was a poor choice of restaurant sadly – the brodo  was really salty and the service was insanely slow. Do not recommend. We then went back home and chilled before bed – random hail included, it seemed like the ceiling was going to collapse over our heads!
Finally Monday, Pasquetta, was our last day in Bologna. It was a sunny and calm day as most shops were closed. We got ready and left all our stuff more or less packed and ready to go before heading out the door into the centre. We decided to take a different route into the centre which took us past Galleria Cavour where all the high-end shops are. And then out near the market and towards the Archiginnasio. The University of Bologna is the oldest university currently still active and it was amazing to visit the main old building and the famous Teatro Anatomico where they used to teach Science lectures and the Sala dello Stabat Mater that now houses a large collection of old academic books. The whole building was beautiful, with the walls decorated with coats of arms and names of the former graduates of the University. It was definitely one of the prettiest and richest buildings in Bologna, definitely worth a visit if you’re around!
After visiting the Archiginnasio we didn’t have much else to do so we wandered around the smaller streets and tried to stay in the sun because the breeze was actually quite chilly. We ended up at Naama Dolci, a Middle Eastern pastry shop near Piazza Maggiore. We’d walked past it on Friday and an Italian passer-by had said it was really good, so we went inside and got ourselves some treats. I went for a honey and nut pastry and another one filled with dates. I can’t remember the names, but they were sublime! We enjoyed them in the sun of Piazza Maggiore, listening to a nearby busking brass band and watching the people walk past. We then got a little hungrier so headed to the market to get some food – I settled for a crudo and mozzarella farcita and a spinach and cheese calzone while Megan got a melanzane pastry and a mortadella sandwhich. All really good and pretty cheap. We ate under the sun again and then decided to go to a couple other shops before heading back to the airbnb and retrieving our stuff. The trip back was fine, we got the bus and the FlixBus was on time again which was great.
All in all, it was a great weekend away. Bologna is a gorgeous city with great food. It was a nice combination of new and old buildings and I wish it had been an option for the Erasmus exchange, just like Pisa. I’ve really liked both cities. Bologna, with its nice Spring weather, alleged student atmosphere (we just happened to go on holiday period when students were out of town), culinary and cultural landscapes, is definitely a place to stop by if you get the chance!
Hope you enjoyed the post! Make sure to follow me on my social media to see more amazing pictures and keep up to date:

This week I’m staying in Siena getting work done before Dad comes to visit, so a few more boring days before travelling starts again – keep your eyes peeled!
Ci sentiamo!

Zoe

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